Cub: Easy Tiger
In 2013, as Londoners were sheepishly sipping gin-tonics and devilishly diving into speakeasy bars, Ryan Chetiyawardana opened White Lyan. Here we had a cocktail bar, with an excellently price drinks list, pre-batched tipples, oh and no ice either. It was a game changer and acted as a base to magic up other concepts, like Dandelyan on the South Bank and coffee pop-up Black Lyan.
Today, you'll find Chetiyawardana's latest project Cub at the same spot in Hoxton, where naturally, drinks play a leading role. There's food, too! He's got Doug McMaster of Silo in Brighton on board and the vibe is all about bringing sustainability back, minus faff. Opening the UK's first zero-waste restaurant, McNaster is another creative force to be reckoned with and I'm excited about getting to know their baby Cub.
The fit out is retro diner, lots of yellow and generally a lot warmer than its predecessor White Lyan. The nine course menu will set you back £45, no I'm not missing a digit there. You see, Cub is where food and drink becomes one. Don't go if you're after a constant stream of gut-busting dishes, some courses are just drinks, but bloody good drinks at that, Krug Champagne and spiked herbs?
Meanwhile, an immaculately peeled yellow tomato is on a hot date with lemon verbena. A hyper-seasonal greengage and camomile vodka tipple comes alongside. Chervil, red apple and turbo whey brings not-so-welcome dessert vibes to the party early doors. Thankfully, I'm much more hospitable towards 'shrooms on shrooms'; a celebration of one of my favourite things from the earth, served raw and cooked every which way.
Whilst a gin, banana, bitter orange and miso combo reads ghastly on paper is in fact delish in person. It's easy to overthink something but you can't judge until you try, and this top dog. Yes, I'm still yearning for THOSE mushies, bush the warm corn bread buns just have to win star dish. Comfort food, perfect texture... and bread which I can eat. We finish with Chetiyawardana's take on an espresso martini, licked with a generous helping of cognac, ovz.
If the jury's still out for you, please don't think for a second you're being short changed with the f&b hybrid menu, embrace little Cub and it will roar.
Five Very Kerri things about Cub
- The Little Things (i.e. Still as fuck water)
- Sunshine yellow
- Thinking differently
- Ehh, Krug
- And all the Other Drinkypoos