Mirazur: If Life Gives You Lemons
It's Birthday Week and I am brimming with blissful joy. Earlier in the year, I narrowed Darty's plans from hitting up two countries in two days to just sticking with one. Wise move.
We're charging up the French Riviera on an old rattled train. Whether waves are crashing onto rugged shores or swish beach clubs are decked out in floaty white linen, there is a beautiful moment around every bend of the coastline. We get off at a seemingly sleepy Menton and are headed to Mirazur for lunch. Thankfully, for my wedges and I, we don't have to schlep too far uphill as this is most definitely not Uber territory.
I'm not the only one with a few candles to blow out. Celebrating its 10th Birthday, Mirazur is no spring chicken by World's Best Restaurants terms. However, whilst most folk would be happy with one, let alone two, gleaming Michelin stars, Argentinian Chef Mauro Colagreco is shooting for a third. Today, we're tucking into a taste of Mirazur over the course of a decade. Suffice to say, we're in for a treat.
At first glance, there's a classic vibe, with oysters, lobster and pigeon all featuring, but, before you even get your feet under the table, a graveyard-esque dried sardine arrives. This is when the fun starts. Eggs Florentine undersells and over delivers as does turbot later on. Actually, let's talk about the turbot; smoked and served with salty sorrel, it's stunning and confidently simple. Presentation is tongue-in-cheek without verging on try-hard throughout.
Seasonality is championed, and the team talk a strong lemon game. Wild garlic gets a seeing to, rightly so as its only got a few weeks of fame. I dig asparagus, but find Mirazur's take dull, not because it's a dish from '07, as great dishes last forever, just because it's, well a bit boring. Anyway, not only delighting on the seasonality factor, but also dish of the day, is the biggest morel I've ever consumed.
Desserts are delicate and pretty, but you know I'm never going to be ranting and raving about anything that isn't dark chocolate. Of the two we devour, one is too bitter and the other too sweet. I feel like Goldilocks. Then, one of us orders another bottle of Chablis and the most gorgeous birthday cake appears, which is hugely embarrassing but twice as lovely.
Whilst the 'Best of Mirazur' menu is a stunning thing, some dishes are outdated and I would like to have seen a more contemporary spin on them. On an excited note, since Menton is the lemon capital of the world, I will absolutely be back to try Mirazur's unique menu which gives a nod to this beautiful yellow fruit every year.
In other news, the second country on Darty's original agenda was, Italy, specifically, Turin. And yes I'm pining for a vermouth on the rocks with a slab of dark chocolate there right now. Just not sure if I'll be able to hold off until the next birthday.
Five Very Kerri things about Mirazur
- Lemon fest
- Olive Oil menu
- Marvellous morels
- All the Chablis
- Three Star Goals
Five Very Kerri things about Monte Carlo
- Strong crudités game
- Anjuna Beach (Eze)
- La Colombe d'Or (St Paul)
- The Fairmont's happy hour
- Outrageous behaviour encouraged