Pollen Street Social: PS, Sensational
I seem to have been on a tour of Jason Atherton's restaurants since my first taste of The Social Company in July 2013, when I went to Social Eating House. I haven't the faintest idea why it has taken me this long to get to the mothership, anyway, I am pleased to say, it was worth the wait.
Tasting menus on a Thursday afternoon are a pretty decadent way to roll, but it's my birthday and that's that. Following on from a surprise glass of Champagne a dear friend has organised, we look to the Loire for inspo, settling on a 2013 Sancerre. That’ll do.
Of course ‘snacks’ (Great Gatsby meets Moulin Rouge) aren’t of the carrots and hummus ilk. Parmesan churros with truffle are the highlight on Darty’s shelf. I’m having the time of my life, and I wish I could say the same for the gluten free bread, which is a bit of a fail.
White bean soup pimped with tarragon and truffle is the cashmere of the soup world. Colchester crab with apple, black garlic and lemon is next on the agenda. One of my favourite things about Jason’s food is that it undersells and overdelivers. The ‘lemon’ element here is a work of art; we’re talking lemon gel packing an almighty punch.
A fat Orkney scallop sits atop king of the sea; turbot. What I am missing, though, is the wild garlic risotto. Perhaps it’s because wild garlic is only in season for about a month, but I love the stuff, however it’s replaced with wafer-thin slivers of potato on this occasion.
Darty's chowing down on suckling pig and it's tugging at a heartstring; reminding me of family fiestas in Spain, a very refined version mind. Meanwhile, lamb three ways rocks my world. What is it with lamb neck dishes in Jason Atherton’s restaurants!?
Pink tickets and palate cleansers come in the form of beetroot and blood orange sorbet with candied beetroot. We keep things pink with a few glasses of Brice rose bubbles from a fabulously named place in northeast France; Bouzy. My kinda town.
Whilst Lincolnshire apple cake is a caramalised celebration of Britishness, it’s the gluten free dark chocolate pave and olive oil jelly, which has me jumping up and down. Plated with love, it is a fine looking dessert and it tastes even better. Oh yeah.
So that’s me up to date on Jason Atherton’s UK Empire, well until Social Wine and Tapas opens in June, of course.
Five Very Kerri things about Pollen Street Social
- Understated class
- Crockery porn
- Long lunch potential
- Somewhere to celebrate
- Cheeky private dining room downstairs