Restaurant Ours: Local Fay-vourite

Some restaurants open with a star-studded knees up, others open under the radar, and then there's Restaurant Ours, which let's just say, didn't have a textbook launch campaign.

Tom Sellers' second London site was always going to be exciting; his 'It Chef' status for one, seeing The Collection's iconic space reimagined another, or simply having somewhere potentially reliable in South Ken. In its first few weeks, as usual, there were a flurry of reviews; good, bad but nothing too ugly, until Fay's. She mercilessly chewed the place, the staff, and the food up and spat it all out again. Restaurants get slated every so often, that's a critics job, most take it on the chin and crack on. Not Tom Sellers, who reacted via a tremendously well written letter, and shared publically. Badass? Some think it was stupid and others think it was a super PR move. Either way, it gave me ANOTHER reason to go.

Cruising down the long catwalk is surreal at 1pm, rather than 1am and a few fuzzy throwbacks hit me on arrival. In fairness, they've made a place so closely tied to late night partying look remarkably smart in the day. We sit by the windows, the other side of the room where the booths were is dark, above which there's a mezzanine bar with bottle green sofas, trees galore and decks.

House fizz is Pol Roger, which we inhale. I quite fancy a lot on the menu, it just pops. There's a sexy raw section which I would happily get to know; melt-in-the-mouth tuna stands out and steak tartare also looks set to impress. Melon salad with 'chilli' is forgettable, but this was a simple order fail on our part, although the lack of chilli not. Simple-sounding crab and avo brightens things up, although change the plating and it would be even better.

Thrills continue with mains. Saffron-rich John Dory is like sunny Spain on a plate; I absolutely love everything about this little fishy and the way it's been treated by the kitchen. Holy cow, Darty's sirloin is a belter and the Bearnaise outstanding, less so are carrots Vichy but we'll forgive them because a whole cauliflower arrives, charred to an inch of its life and we savour every mouthful gratefully.

Plates polished off, we honestly have no room for pud. It would have been easy to hate Ours and never return, but I bloody love it. There's still so much on the menu I have a hankering for, so will be making a beeline back very soon.
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Five Very Kerri things about Restaurant Ours

  1. Sunshine on a plate
  2. Good value set Lunch
  3. Approachable menu and cooking
  4. Trees et al
  5. Punchy cocktail list