Soif: Au Natural
I leave the El Bulli exhibition in Somerset House hungry. The insight into Ferran Adrià's journey was enlightening. The photographs, even harking back to 1987 when he took charge in the kitchen, were refined yet edgy. The underlying message of it all being that success comes when today's most valuable raw materials; creativity and talent, are optimised. Game changing. So, I guess, if one's not hungry following food porn fest of the year, then there's something wrong.
Molecular cuisine is not on the menu this golden evening, but I am no less inspired. I jump on the train homeward bound and leap off at The Junction with a sudden thirst; Soif. As I stride up bustling Battersea Rise, I'm already thinking about my first glass of salmon-coloured rosé, now there's a surprise. Sustainable, biodynamic and organic are three words you'll hear plenty of in Soif, which can only be a good thing. Natural all the way. I would say, though, that this sort of wine isn't to everyone's taste, so ask for a taste before buying a bottle, the predominantly french staff are always more than happy to accommodate. I've never had a wine I don't fancy here, but one of my favourites is Chateau La Coste Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence Bellugue Rose. Another thing, Soif cheers up Mondays by having wines available for retail price. See you there next week.
On my two most recent visits, there have been four standout dishes. The globe artichoke with vinaigrette is not shy on size and great for throwing in the middle and getting stuck into; social and summery, it's the perfect partner in crime for lots of pale rosé. Goat's curd with courgettes, broad beans and mint is almost cloud-like in its lightness. Cornish sardines swimming in sauce vierge prove that keeping the main thing the main thing is key, they pop with colours of the Mediterranean and taste like grilled goodness. On the heartier side is black pudding with mushrooms, tarragon and egg yolk which Darty devoured in no time flat.
Five Very Kerri things about Soif
- The Rosé
- Perching at the Bar
- Small plates
- Did I mention the Rosé?