Trinity: An English education, with a few glasses of Old World wine

Darty's had this in the diary all week. Sick as a dog, but stubborn as a mule, I pull myself together and hotfoot it to Clapham Old Town for our lunch date. A raving fan of its younger sister Bistro Union, it is surprising that I've not yet made it to the mothership. We're virtually blown across the Common so being welcomed by a cheerful Irish lady when we walk into Trinity is most comforting.

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Crunchy radishes appear and, in a Best of Blighty mood, we fire in a request for two glasses of Balfour Brut Rosé. What a fantastic shout. Outside the wind is roaring and inside we're quaffing sparkling wine from Kent. What cold?

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And the award for Best Gluten-free Bread of the Year goes to... Trinity. Huzzah! It's just so light and, well, un-glutenfree-like. Mind, it might have something to do with the whipped Somerset butter. As you know, I'm an olive oil chica through and through, but some of the butter I've had of late has been off the charts. That smoked bone marrow number from the Dairy springs to mind, and this whipped stuff is just as naughty.

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There is a cracking set lunch menu but we go off piste, which proves to be a good call. My perfectly seared scallop with romanseco and oyster does a victory lap with a clean Sancerre. Darty devours a longstanding star on Trinity's menu; trotters with tangy gribiche, poached quail egg and shard of crackling. Great with a glass of Dr Loosen Riesling, so we learn.

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Eying up the wine list for our next target, we enjoy a well deserved breather. What comes next basically rocks the casbah. Caramelised cod makes me forget I am even under the weather and, my vegetable of the moment, cauliflower, comes in fondant-form. Cockles and capers also add punch. All washed down with Pouilly-Fuissé, I am a one happy woman. Darty's apricot-stuffed rump of lamb is paired with baked Jerusalem artichokes and grilled baby aubergines. Major rosemary love going on. It is one version of Autumn, plated. Maybe it needed something bolder than the Pinot Noir, my bad, but it still fit the bill for the moment that was in it.

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We could quite easily while the rest of the day here. The desserts read wonderfully and look like knockouts. Then there is always cheese and a cheeky glass of port as an option. But we've got to crack on and get ready for a NFL party at the Royal Exchange. Ahem, we fire in a few double espressos to start up the engines again. And the homemade macarons of the day, apple, appear.

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It is a no brainer, we will be skipping back across the common again and again to tuck into whatever Adam Byatt happens to be plating up. The Trinity team has created a homely place that feels completely genuine and utterly cool at the same time.

Five Very Kerri Things about Trinity

1.Gluten-free bread
2. Pretty plating
3. Homely vibes
4. Whipped butter, you saw it coming
5. The can't-do-enough-for-you Team