Salon: Footloose and faff-free
Brixton cradles some of the uniquely London things which give me THAT warm Ready-Brek-feeling. Like seeing peeps queue 45mins for an Honest Burger, Shrub & Shutter’s mariachi band-garnished cocktails, tasting menus in shipping containers, and revellers inhaling Crémant and compté like both are going out of fashion - to name a few. And this is all on a Tuesday.
Anyway, tonight I’m headed to Salon; a safe-house from the market’s food trucks and fast food faves. With a deli, wine shop and restaurant all under one roof, it’s your one stop shop for a good time. The restaurant is ex-Brunswick House Nicholas Balfe’s first solo site, who’s known for championing best of British eeeats. It’s a daily changing chef’s menu vibe; at a refreshingly good price point to boot.
A glistening dashi mushroom broth provides a very grown-up welcome, we follow suit with bone dry Brut Nature Collet fizz. Soon I’m suffering a serious case of food envy as Darty takes down ‘nduja croquetas but solace swiftly comes to the rescue via pumpkin dip, more of the flaxseed dunkers, please!
A polite-looking pile of brill, kohlrabi and sesame is all a bit beige but a bowl of mussels in cider with a wedge of caramelised Savoy cabbage delivers bags of flavour. Cabbage is generally a big thing with Balfe’s eeeats and he does it proper justice in this case. Salt marsh lamb keeps the husband quiet whilst I’m just as happy with the accompanying just-charred broccoli snuggled in lashings of buttery bagna càuda.
As a general fan of nuts on everything, I am seriously in favour of the cracked black pepper roasted apple pud with toasted buckwheat and another one of THOSE flaxseed crackers. The dark choc salted caramel send offs which follow are just downright naughty. Balfe has been changing the game at Salon since 2012; and how it’s taken me this long to step foot in the place is deplorable. Clearly, I have a lot of making up to do and I’m pleased I started tonight.
Five Very Kerri things about Salon
- Provenance, provenance, provenance
- Tasting menu on a shoestring
- Seasonal veggie heroes
- Nuts on everything