Sorella: You had me at pasta
To regular readers, it will come as no surprise that I have a bit of a thing for Robin Gill’s restaurants.
In 2013, around the same time VeryKerri.com launched, The Dairy opened making rooftop gardens a thing and knocking out good value tasting menus in big stone bowls. The Manor followed with an all-bells-and-whistles dessert bar, serving petits fours in a chest of drawers. The Dairy has remained a personal favourite over the years, but I'm also a sucker for Gill’s BYO Counter Culture next door, where I can be found chowing down on all the ‘Nduja at the bar. There is a time and a place for everything folks.
Last December, news of The Manor‘s closure could have meant a major blow for my social life. But, it was to make way for Sorella, Gill’s love-letter to his time working on the Amalfi Coast and one of my favourite things to happen to the industry so far this year. I’m such a fan that I’ve already been there three times since it opened in January.
Recently after working on Saturday Kitchen nearby, I ask for a Negroni, and Dan’s punchy reaction makes sense when I realise it’s midday, rather than the wholly acceptable negroni time 4pm it feels like. We agree on an Americano. The list is distinctly Italian and the vermouth is homemade; mainline me up. Aperitivo hour calls for snacks, and so far, I’ve been lucky enough to try a range of Sorella’s arancini; squid ink coming out tops, with truffle on its tail. Darty has also sailed through most of the charcuterie.
As a general fan of carb on carb, I strongly recommend ordering ALL of the pasta dishes, even if it’s just two of you. Fennel, crab and chili linguine is dreamy with a glass of Pecorino at lunch, whilst cep gnocchi with wild mushies nails an evening choice. And of course, jumping into bed with ‘nduja ragu is a given 24/7. I’ve been pining for Dean’s GF pasta recipe since the first bite because it genuinely is THAT good.
Mains like Lady Hamilton cod and Julie Girl monkfish bring all the sex appeal to the table; the latter of which Dean smokes over the Big Green Egg. An assuming globe artichoke broth alongside is an ode to the humble veggie. There are puds, too. Be warned, nothing jumps off the menu, but then you fire in a Pump Street chocolate & fennel gelato number, and oh my word, suddenly all is well in the world again.
Sorella is a genuine love-story where you’re whisked off to stylish shores, and the really clever thing is that whilst The Manor was somewhere you’d go if you couldn’t get into the Dairy, Sorella is a must-try destination in its own right. From the aperitivi and antipasti to the pretty polenta send-offs, I love it all. But, Sorella, you had me at pasta...
FIVE VERY KERRI THINGS ABOUT SORELLA
- Carb on carb
- Family vibes
- Little fried naughty bits
- Raucousness encouraged
- Did I mention the pasta